Cutting Edge – Articles

Dolce & Gabbana v. Diet Prada

Instagram post by Diet Prada announcing that it filed defense of freedom of speech in answer to Dolce & Gabbana defamation lawsuit

DIET PRADA FOUNDERS FIGHT ANTI-ASIAN RACISM 

AND DEFEND FREE SPEECH AGAINST LAWSUIT BY DOLCE & GABBANA

Fashion Law Institute at Fordham Provides Pro Bono Legal Assistance

NEW YORK / MILAN (March 4, 2021)—On Monday Instagrammers Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, the duo behind the company that runs Diet Prada, filed a defense of their freedom of speech in answer to defamation claims brought in a Milan court by Italian luxury brand Dolce & Gabbana. The lawsuit argues that Liu and Schuyler should be held responsible for lost revenue and other harm to the brand and its co-founder Stefano Gabbana after Diet Prada criticized a 2018 Dolce & Gabbana advertising campaign on Weibo for its stereotypical and sexist depiction of a Chinese woman and revealed anti-Asian remarks apparently originating from Gabbana’s Instagram account. The messages, which at the time were rebutted as hackers’ actions, called China the ”country of [five poop emoji]” and its people “ignorant dirty smelling mafia.”

Following the widespread negative response to its advertising campaign and the withdrawal of many Chinese models and guests from a planned fashion show in Shanghai, Dolce & Gabbana canceled the event and issued a public video apology featuring its founders. Shortly thereafter, in early 2019, the brand filed an action for defamation demanding that Liu and Schuyler pay damages in the amount of €3 million for Dolce & Gabbana and €1 million for Stefano Gabbana. 

The nonprofit Fashion Law Institute, based at Fordham Law School, is coordinating Liu and Schuyler’s defense through its pro bono clinic in collaboration with Italian law firm AMSL Avvocati.   

Statement from Diet Prada co-founder Tony Liu (NEW YORK):

As an Asian-American, I’m part of a community that is often misrepresented. Like many people of color in the United States, there’s pain that stems from seeing ourselves depicted through inaccurate, harmful stereotypes. Often, it leads to racism and violence.

Growing up as a queer person of color in a predominantly white town, I’ve often found myself intimidated and at a loss for words when confronted with racism and bigotry. Having cultivated 

Diet Prada as a platform where stereotypes are laid bare and stories from the larger BIPOC community are brought to the fore, is one of the things I’m most proud of.

For two years, I’ve stayed silent and carried the burden of this lawsuit on my shoulders. During this time, the world was forced to reckon with the systemic racism in the U.S. that led to the murder of George Floyd and countless other Black lives, as well as the xenophobia that further fueled Trump’s anti-Asian rhetoric in the age of COVID-19. In the outpouring of support for these communities being targeted, we all continue to see the power of solidarity and speaking truth to power. Diet Prada will continue to be a platform to elevate these crucial issues.

Statement from Diet Prada co-founder Lindsey Schuyler (NEW YORK):

Diet Prada has made a point to be actively anti-racist for years. As an ally to my Asian friends, and the community at large, I was offended not only at the caricatures of China and Chinese people, but also by the misogynistic images associated with them.

As a woman, I believe it is important that media outlets speak out against misogyny as well as racism and are not silenced by legal threats. Discrediting and denouncing the press, charges of “fake news,” and a general threatening attitude towards journalists are a breeding ground for danger and a slippery slope toward extremism.

Now is the time for public figures and brands to respond to public opinion and media critiques with progressive action, not lawsuits.

Statement from Professor Susan Scafidi, Founder & Director of the Fashion Law Institute at Fordham (NEW YORK):

Since our founding in 2010, a key part of the Fashion Law Institute’s mission has been to provide pro bono legal assistance to industry professionals – in this case, individuals working to hold the fashion industry to high ethical standards, to defend the right to freedom of speech, and to promote diversity, equity, and inclusion by criticizing anti-Asian caricatures.

Italian and U.S. anti-defamation law differ in their specifics, and it is apparent that the plaintiffs engaged in a degree of forum shopping. However, we are confident that Diet Prada is on the right side of both law and history, and we are honored to help them demonstrate that harmful stereotypes are never in style.  

Statement from Marco Amorese, AMSL Avvocati (MILAN and BERGAMO, ITALY)

Freedom of speech and criticism are fundamental values of an open society and constitute an important stimulus in the dissemination of a way of doing business that respects the diversity of gender, ethnicity and sexual orientation. The critique of cultural paradigms that are deemed inadequate should promote change and not give rise to judicial actions aimed at silencing it. We are convinced that Italian Courts will know how to protect those civil liberties.

Contact information 

Fashion Law Institute 

at Fordham

info@fashionlawinstitute.com

 

An unofficial English-language translation of the response filed Monday on behalf of Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, along with the original version in Italian, is available in Dropboxhttps://www.dropbox.com/sh/myrny5nvbm70p7w/AAD9sL52dTdmMVVHvg4DxdbZa?dl=0

Immoral Trademarks Ban is FUCT

In a ruling that was not at all a surprise given its earlier decision allowing the registration offensive marks, the Supreme Court has found that the longstanding prohibition on registering immoral and scandalous trademarks violates the First Amendment. The victory by fashion brand FUCT success is a sign of streetwear’s rapidly growing cultural influence. Not long ago, streetwear synonymous with ASBOs (UK – anti-social behavior orders), danger, and illegality in racially charged trope. Now, street fashion is restyling the law.

Breaking: Gucci & Forever 21 Settle Stripes Case

Forever 21 and Gucci have settled their lawsuit over the Gucci Web trademarks – the famous Gucci Blue-Red-Blue and Green-Red-Green stripes.

The high-profile companies’ struggle over stripes created ripples throughout the fashion industry, especially among companies accustomed to sending cease-and-desist letters and negotiating private settlements with fast fashion’s usual suspects.   F21’s preemptive dash to court via a declaratory judgment action didn’t strip Gucci of its stripes, but it will have a lingering effect on brand protection programs, causing trademark owners to re-consider whether sending a C&D is risk-free.

Disclosure: Professor Scafidi was an expert for Gucci in this case.

Converse Wins
Trademark Appeal

Converse Chuck Taylor sneaker ad

Today the Federal Circuit issued an opinion in Converse v. International Trade Commission, a trademark case involving the midsole design of Chuck Taylor All Stars.  The decision was a major victor for Converse, which will now have another opportunity to prove that Skechers, New Balance, and the owners of the Ash brand — the remaining intervenors in the case — infringed the mark and to defend its validity.

The opinion is also significant for trade dress in general, clarifying that claimants must demonstrate the existence of secondary meaning before the first use in each case of infringement, and also that the relevant period for analyzing secondary meaning is five years prior to registration or prior to first infringing use, whichever is earlier.  In addition, the Federal Circuit adds unsolicited media coverage to its list of factors to consider in assessing secondary meaning and changes the way it treats the factors of length, degree, and exclusivity of use, noting in passing that each of the 11 circuit courts has a slightly different list.  SCOTUS, are you listening?

Overall, Converse’s attempt to protect its classic Chucks is still a marathon rather than a sprint, but the company has pulled ahead of its competitors for now.

Below: the Federal Circuit’s ruling and the Fashion Law Institute’s amicus brief!

Disappearing Fan Bingbing

Chinese actress Fan Bingbing models a Montblanc watch

Chinese actress Fan Bingbing has mysteriously disappeared after being accused of tax evasion — and she’s started disappearing from her fashion sponsorships as well. Do fashion companies have a responsibility to keep her as the face of their brands? How should fashion brands adapt to China’s political culture? Associate Director spoke with the New York Times about ethics, strategy, and the important Chinese market:

Jeff Trexler, associate director of the Fashion Law Institute at Fordham University, said displays of conspicuous wealth are seen as an affront to the message being promoted by the Chinese government: that everyone in the country is rising upward on an economic wave.

“The more wealthy your spokespeople are, the greater the risk is,” he said.

Companies also worry that if they upset the Chinese government by continuing to promote someone who has fallen from favor, as Ms. Fan appears to have, they might suffer in a variety of ways, from taxes audits to obstacles opening new stores.

What does this mean for marketing strategy? That was a central theme of our longer discussion with the Times — and that will be the topic of a more extensive analysis to follow!

Fakespotting with Tyra Banks

Professor Susan Scafidi and supermodel Tyra Banks standing with scissors to cut authentic and fake Gucci bags

Here’s a look at Professor Scafidi’s 2007 classic appearance on the Tyra Show, where they take their scissors to authentic and fake Gucci bags to see what makes the real difference. For a look at the latest in counterfeit-detection techniques, join us this Friday for our 8th anniversary event, Know Your Faux: New Tactics and Tech for Fighting Fakes!

First segment:

Second Segment:

Bonus unedited version of the second segment from the now-deleted Tyra Show website — originally in a Flash file!

Sales Tax, SCOTUS, and Retail Technology

Front page of 1943 National Bellas Hess catalog (courtesy of Sensibility.com) and front page of Supreme Court's Wayfair opinion, which overruled the Court's 1967 National Bellas Hess ruling

The Supreme Court has overruled decades of precedent establishing that sales tax could be required only when the seller has a physical presence in the state. As a result, online sales can now be subject to taxation in the state and local jurisdictions where consumers make their purchases, even if the seller has no other link to where the transaction takes place.

The case, South Dakota v. Wayfair, Inc., Overstock.com Inc., and Newegg.com, Inc., was a topic of discussion in the lively tax panel at the Fashion Law Institute’s most recent symposium. As the panel noted, the Supreme Court’s sales tax jurisprudence prior to the new ruling in Wayfair arguably cost states billions of dollars in tax revenue from online transactions, a problem that the South Dakota law at issue in Wayfair sought to solve by requiring online sellers to collect tax “as if the seller had a physical presence in the state.” Although this law was deemed invalid by lower courts applying long-established precedent, the state called for the Court to overturn its earlier decisions in light of the new economic environment created by the robust online market.

Fashion and the law before Wayfair

Wayfair has at least a couple direct connections to fashion. One of the respondents challenging the South Dakota law, Overstock.com, is a longtime online seller of clothing, jewelry, and accessories. To see why it would oppose the South Dakota law imposing sales tax on online sales, we need only look to the company’s FAQs, which as of this post date still reflect the law before the Supreme Court’s Wayfair ruling. As the Overstock.com FAQs note, pre-Wayfair companies had to collect sales tax only in states in which they resided, which meant that Overstock.com only customers in two states had to pay sales tax. This gave Overstock.com, along with other online retailers, a decided advantage over brick-and-mortar shops: where the online sellers were not collecting sales tax, Overstock.com items effectively enjoyed an automatic discount.

Overstock.com FAQ stating that retailers have to collect sales tax only in states in which they are residents

As it happens, the physical presence doctrine, which Wayfair overruled, itself went back more than five decades to a fashion case: National Bellas Hess v. Dept. of Revenue. In this 1967 decision, the Supreme Court found that an apparel mail-order catalog company did not have to pay sales tax on purchases sent to states where it did not have a physical presence, such as a brick-and-mortar shop, warehouse, or employees. According to National Bellas Hess, for a state to collect sales tax on catalog purchases and other transactions where the retailer lacked a physical presence in the jurisdiction would be “an unconstitutional burden upon interstate commerce,” a conclusion later upheld in Quill Corp. v. South Dakota.

Changing technology –> changing law

Mail-order catalogs were an analog ancestor of today’s digital merchants, but the Wayfair Court sees digital sales as distinct in both substance and scale. The majority opinion holds that exempting online transactions distorts the market in a way that is itself unconstitutional, inasmuch as the resulting discount arbitrarily skews the market in favor of sellers without a physical presence in a particular state. The centrality of evolving tech to Wayfair is particularly evident in the following passage from the majority opinion:

The Quill Court itself acknowledged that the physical presence rule is “artificial at its edges.” 504 U. S., at 315. That was an understatement when Quill was decided; and when the day-to-day functions of marketing and distribu­ tion in the modern economy are considered, it is all the more evident that the physical presence rule is artificial in its entirety.

Modern e-commerce does not align analytically with a test that relies on the sort of physical presence defined in Quill. In a footnote, Quill rejected the argument that “title to ‘a few floppy diskettes’ present in a State” wassufficient to constitute a “substantial nexus,” id., at 315, n. 8. But it is not clear why a single employee or a single warehouse should create a substantial nexus while “physi­cal” aspects of pervasive modern technology should not. For example, a company with a website accessible in South Dakota may be said to have a physical presence in the State via the customers’ computers. A website may leave cookies saved to the customers’ hard drives, or cus­ tomers may download the company’s app onto their phones. Or a company may lease data storage that is per­ manently, or even occasionally, located in South Dakota. Cf. United States v. Microsoft Corp., 584 U. S. ___ (2018) (per curiam). What may have seemed like a “clear,” “bright-line tes[t]” when Quill was written now threatens to compound the arbitrary consequences that should have been apparent from the outset. 504 U. S., at 315.

The “dramatic technological and social changes” of our “increasingly interconnected economy” mean that buyers are “closer to most major retailers” than ever before— “regardless of how close or far the nearest storefront.” Direct Marketing Assn. v. Brohl, 575 U. S. ___, ___, ___ (2015) (KENNEDY, J., concurring) (slip op., at 2, 3). Be­tween targeted advertising and instant access to most consumers via any internet-enabled device, “a business may be present in a State in a meaningful way without” that presence “being physical in the traditional sense of the term.” Id., at ___ (slip op., at 3). A virtual showroom can show far more inventory, in far more detail, and with greater opportunities for consumer and seller interaction than might be possible for local stores. Yet the continuous and pervasive virtual presence of retailers today is, under Quill, simply irrelevant. This Court should not maintain a rule that ignores these substantial virtual connections to the State.

Knitting yarn and the devils in the details

In holding that sales tax may be imposed on transactions in which a seller does not have a traditional physical presence in a particular jurisdiction, the Wayfair Court has created a new sales tax landscape for sellers of all sizes, from multibillion-dollar companies to small-scale designers on Etsy. As Chief Justice Roberts notes in his dissent, this has the potential to expose sellers across the country to a dizzying array of rules over 10,000 state and local jurisdictions, many of which are not obvious: for example, “New Jersey knitters pay sales tax on yarn purchased for art projects, but not on yarn earmarked for sweaters.”

However, as the Wayfair opinion notes, in practice the legal situation may not be so complex. Tech itself provides a solution to the problem it could create, inasmuch as there is already software that can process transactions across products and jurisdictions. Moreover, not all sales tax laws would extend to smaller sellers; the South Dakota statute at issue, for instance, “applies only to sellers that deliver more than $100,000 of goods or services into South Dakota orengage in 200 or more separate transactions for the delivery of goods and services into the State on an annual basis.” In this regard, as noted in the symposium, sales tax administration in the U.S. is already developing adaptive standardization akin to the new value-added tax system in the European Union, where the collection and distribution of the VAT is being streamlined to reduce the burden on sellers.

What next?

Whatever one’s perspective on the outcome, the Wayfair ruling illustrates a recurring theme in both the symposium and the Institute’s upcoming Silicon Valley edition of Fashion Law Bootcamp: new technology can give rise to new law.

National Bellas Hess cover courtesy of Sensibility.com.

Louboutin’s Victory in Europe Day

Christian Louboutin is walking tall today after the Court of Justice of the European Union (CJEU) effectively confirmed the validity of his red sole trademark for women’s high-heeled shoes.

In response to a referral from a court in the Netherlands, the CJEU determined that the mark was not merely “a shape which gives substantial value to the goods” — and thus not registrable under EU law — but instead a specific color placed in a particular position on the products.  The case will now go back to the court in the Netherlands, presumably for a ruling in favor of Louboutin and against Van Haren Schoenen, which allegedly sold infringing footwear back in 2012.

This decision was a victory not only for Louboutin but also for common sense, since the court based its decision on the simple understanding that the word “shape” refers to the outline or contour of a product, not its color.  Louboutin does not claim the various shapes of the soles of shoes as trademarks; instead, the trademark consists of the color Pantone 18-1663TP applied to the soles of shoes.

While the CJEU decision in favor of Louboutin might seem like a shoe-in, the court actually went against an advocate general’s opinion from back in February, which advised that color should not be considered apart from shape — a determination that led many to assume incorrectly that Louboutin’s Benelux (that is, Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg) trademark had been or was about to be canceled.

Christian Louboutin’s signature soles are in fact stronger than ever, and the owners of color and position marks all over Europe have an extra spring in their step.

NYC Acts on #MeToo Reform Recommendations

Three images: NYC First Lady Chirlane McCray hightlights Denim Day at Gracie Mansion; Fashion Law Institute logo pin with official NYC anti-harassment button; New York City Commission on Human Rights Deputy Commission Dana Sussman and her newborn

On Wednesday, April 25, Professor Susan Scafidi and Associate Director Jeff Trexler joined New York City First Lady Chirlane McCray and the New York City Commission on Human Rights at a special event in Gracie Mansion to mark the release of the Commission’s new report, “Combating Sexual Harassment in the Workplace: Trends and Recommendations Based on 2017 Public Hearing Testimony.” The report makes multiple references to the Fashion Law Institute’s recommendations for legal reform, a number of which were also adopted by the New York City Council in its landmark Stop Sexual Harassment in NYC Act.

The report and selections from the Act can be found below, along with our written testimony and the transcript of the spoken testimony at the 2017 NYCCHR hearing. Pictured above: First Lady McCray shows her jeans to highlight Denim Day; the Fashion Law Institute’s logo pin with the official NYCCHR pin in the campaign against sexual harassment; and NYCCHR Deputy Commissioner Dana Sussman and her newborn daughter, empowering the new generation!